Ask the Expert: Seasonal Suiting 

When the weather app says “wintry mix,” the first thing I think of is a game plan for my outfit. The second thing I think of is my wife’s annual request that we live in a warmer climate. Although I love my wife, it’s this time of the year that leads to the best clothing man can make, buy, style and wear. I was planning my fall/winter orders in June just ahead of fabric deliveries. This year, I had my eye on the Vitale Barberis Canonico 365 lightweight flannel series, the weight of which is 270 grams per square meter. This equates to about 0.6 pounds per yard of fabric and decently equal in weight to a year round worsted wool. However, since VBCs pillow soft wool is carded (thus producing the slight nap and raised finish of the flannel) it is denser and insulates more than a worsted wool. Think about it like the carbon fiber of the suit world.  

 

The suit I ended up making is a very plainly styled suit to show off the texture and color of the fabric which is best called a “cadet blue.” The pants are finished with a 5cm cuff, button fly and side tabs. Buffalo horn buttons, a simple lining and the BLVDier signature brass lapel pin round out the finishes. My only problem with the suit is that I don’t want to wear it in bad weather conditions. 
Photos by Alex Maier

Zach Uttich has been a custom clothier for 7 years, having worked at the storied Chicago retailer Mark Shale before heading Suitsupply’s North American made-to-measure program. In 2014 he founded BLVDier, a made-to-measure studio in Chicago’s Fulton Market District, to connect old world tailoring with contemporary clothing. BLVDier is a relationship-driven retailer, focusing first on fit & style and proving that there will always be a tailor that will make you walk out looking better than when you walked in.